The Voyage of the Phoenix 1997 - 1998

Royal Island

6/2/98 Tuesday

At 5 we had to tack E and put up the jib also. As the sun came up it illuminated a few clouds to the E and later a line of clouds which swept over us. As they passed the wind increased from 10-15 to 20-25 Kt and I took in the jib. A ketch passed us going N and later 3 sailboats also passed going N, the Abacos is such a wonderful place. As we got closer to the entrance to the banks I dropped the main and rolled out the jib and we turned down wind and like magic the wind dropped to 10 Kt or so it seemed. We rolled down wind passed the wreck at the entrance, one rusted section still juts out of the water and a larger portion is just below the water and waves break over it and send spray shooting up in a large plumb even thought the waves are not that big, 2-3’. As we approach Royal Island another boat motors out of the harbor and on a hunch I call ‘Imagine’ and it is them. they arrived yesterday and explored the island and are headed to Spanish Wells. We pull in and anchor, only one other boat is there in a very large, well protected harbor. It reminds me of Man of War harbor because it had and entrance in the middle and large bays on either side. It also reminds us of the Berry Islands because we can hear roosters crowing. Imagine said that the moorings are not safe so we put down 2 anchors and had lunch. After the overnight passage we are tired and snooze for the rest of the afternoon. At 5 we dingy ashore to look the place over. We pull up to the concrete dock. A sign announces the Royal Island Yacht Club and asks for volunteers to help refurbish it. There is a fish cleaning station and water faucet. We climb a set of very large steep steps up the ridge to the main building and several outlying buildings. They are all build of coral blocks and cement. It must have been some place when it was operating. Shelves, sinks and tubs are all molded of concrete. Many roofs are also concrete but all are cracked and of questionable integrity. We find a path which leads across the island to the NW corner where another small harbor has been created by building a large circular breakwater. Parts of it have been washed away. Behind the club buildings is a large area enclosed by a stone fence 4’ hi and 3’ wide. Further E form the club buildings are storage and maintenance buildings and then a 2 story house with roof gutters and a large cistern which supplies water to the dock. The house is falling apart but somebody is maintaining the roof, cistern and plumbing to the dock.

Back at the boat we swim around for a while and take showers and feel much refreshed. As the sun goes down the air is cool and the wind is blowing 10 Kt from the W, should be a good night to catch up on sleep. We put out the cockpit light and have dinner in the cockpit. Later I run the engine and use the laptop in the cockpit. A number of moths swarm the boat including one that is at least 5" across. They did not get below and we sleep OK.

Harbor Island Yacht Club: There are moorings here - Gretchen says don't use them, so we anchored. The harbor is 15+ feed deep. Very large = 100 yards x 1/2 mile. Pretty clear water. We had lunch, slept and went ashore to explore. One other yacht is here in this big harbor. The old yacht club is a ruins. So well built, probably 50's - 60's. The showers and tubs and sinks (not toilets) are shaped out of concrete. Italian tiles are the flooring - numerous fireplaces - looks like they are used for heat and some cooking on one great room. A drive way (road) extends all the way across the island to the ocean side where there was also a huge dock and anchorage - marina type anchorage. It's an eerie place. Many wild growing garden trees. Shelves at the bar and in the rooms are concrete, so they are still strong. The view of the harbor entrance is outstanding. We took a few pictures. (Ocean side, bar, fireplace). There are wide steps going up from the dock and rebar sticking out of the water. There are many buildings standing because they are all rebarred concrete or coral stones and coral facing over concrete. We were hot and still pretty tired. We returned to Phoenix for happy hour and relaxing and reading and sound sleep after supper :).