The Voyage of the Phoenix 1997 - 1998

Rock Sound

6/19/98 Friday

A light wind comes up from the E. The 3 cruisers we saw at Governors Harbor go by in the morning, one runs right into the bay but they do not stop and continue S. We can see sponges on the bottom and decide to take an early morning swim (10 AM) to photograph them. The bottom is mostly sand with some grass, coral and a few sponges. We see only a few small fish but one 1" fish comes right up to us and swims in our face and tried to swim under my suit. It follows us around as we swim almost to shore and back to the boat. I have never seen such a friendly or persistent fish. After Prell and a sun shower we pull up the anchor around 11 and head for Rock Sound. The wind is blowing stronger from the E, 15 Kt and occasionally stronger but the waves are small due to the windward shore. We have a good sail until 4 PM when we turn SE and the wind starts to shift to the SE also. We turn on the motor and anchor at about 5. The 3 cruisers are anchored off the town and we anchor just N of them. Another sailboat is just S of town and another is anchored in the S end of the bay. The cruising guide says there were coral heads along the path we took but we did not see any and the water was deep all the way. The water in the sound is cloudy and we can not see the bottom at 8’. We relax and for happy hour Jill makes a pot of popcorn and we play a couple games of spite and malice (I win, yeah).

We swam all the way to shore - snorkeling. There were sponges and some coral growth. The weird / funny thing was a little fish - about 2 inches long, yellow color followed us to shore - and back! He would swim right near our faces or hands. I took several pictures and he is in them all. I hated to leave him. ha ha. I saw many sand dollars and neat shells, but they were too deep to get. This salt water won't let you go down too easily. We left Ten Cay about 11 AM. Sailed out of the anchorage :). Sailed all day - Still rugged coats - not so high, but lots of coral caves near the water. 4 PM, arrived at Rock Sound - small town spread along a huge bay. The bottom is muck (white) sand. Pretty sea green - but not clear. I can hear chickens and roosters from the anchorage. I sewed the sail tape patches that we put on the wind scoop yesterday. Then I sewed the 8 red hearts on my cross stitch :).

6/20/98 Saturday

In the morning the other boats left and we had the harbor to ourselves. Around 11 we put down a second anchor and rowed in to shore. The town dock looked a little decrepit and had one ladder which did not look too stable and was missing the bottom rung. We were anchored directly off a road that ran between two houses and down to the water. We rowed towards it and carried the boat over some rocks and tied it to a phone pole. There was a breeze from the S but not much reached us in town. We walked around for a while and came to a new looking building next to the town dock. We walked by and someone inside said hello. We walked to the side and found a sign saying Harbor View Restaurant. We walked back and the lady asked us what we wanted to eat and pointed to the next door which lead into the bar. Here we meet Mike Wallace who is just opened the business a few weeks ago and is still getting everything set up. We had a few drinks and watched their large screen TV. We had cracked conch and fries. After lunch we walked S past the large church and a large grave yard stretching along the beach for quite a ways. We reversed course and walked to the N end of town and stopped at a business supply store and they had books, cards and souvenirs also. We were quite hot from all this walking and returned to the dingy and rowed back to the boat for a swim. The water is a little cloudy but Jill could see lots of little fish swimming around on the bottom. We relaxed for the rest of the day and split two games of RummyCub. There were more clouds today than usual and we saw some rain and lightning in the distance. But things settled down at night and the stars came out.

We explored Rock Sound. I rowed to shore. Good exercise. We walked the length of the town. The seawall to the South guards this 1/2 mile long cemetery. Some of it is off in the woods. It looks like they put the road right through the length of it. Odd. You can't read any tombstone. We took a picture in one spot where stones were painted white.

We had lunch at Mr. Mike Wallace's Bar and Restaurant. Conch and fries. Real good. We went out on the dock and talked with a little boy about 8 or 9 who had a couple of small fry red fish :).

We walked North and stopped at an "office supply" store. There were lots of books in there - mostly children's' books. We bought Eleuthera. It's a reprint of a '66 book - written by a lady who lived here 20 ears. Very interesting.