The Voyage of the Phoenix 1997 - 1998

Cape Eleuthera

6/21/98 Sunday

Today started cloudy and we could see rain to the W. We pulled up the anchors at 10 and just as we started out a few raindrops fell. We got a few more sprinkles getting out of Rock Sound but not much. We could see a larger rain cloud to the W where we were going and more clouds coming from the E so at 11 we anchored to let the weather pass. We were a few miles off shore but the winds were still light and there we waves were only a few feet. We had lunch and listened to the weather broadcast and at 1 things were looking better so we continued to Cape Eleuthera. It was still raining to the W but we got a break in the clouds and followed it. We turned the corner at Cape Eleuthera and found the entrance to the marina at 2 PM. The marina operator and Tom from the other sailboat in the marina came over and helped us tie up. We were the only 2 sailboats, 2 sport fishing boats and a dive boat were also in the marina. A small condo with a few small boats is on the N shore of the harbor. The marina has fuel and ice but no showers or laundry or phone. We rested in the cockpit until sun started to cool off and then walked around the area. This place is filled with ruins also. At the entrance to the harbor is a 2 story building which may have been a restaurant or office building once. It has a great view of the harbor and sound. Behind it is an extensive area of roads with numerous small identical houses all falling apart. On the beach to the S we found a former beach club building with bar and restrooms and inland a community pool with bar and Jacuzzi. To the E of the marina we found the beginnings of an aquarium project with several large tanks with viewing ports. It looked new and in the construction phase. To the N of the marina across a small bridge is the condos and 3 octagonal houses built on small columns like miniature water towers. After our wanderings we returned to the boat for happy hour and dinner. As soon as we put out snacks the gulls came swooping in. Jill chased them off but then we noticed our neighbor Tom was feeding them. A cat came by the dock meowing and the gulls hardly took any notice of it. There was a lightning show to the W and we had seen rain clouds to the E but we got thru the evening without getting wet. After dark the cat came walking down the dock. He saw me and came out our dock and sat there begging for food.

We left for Cape Eleuthera about noon. Some clouds came up and it was raining in the distance so we anchored on the Sound for an hour or so and had lunch and watched the sky. It cleared some and we continued on. There were a lot of rocks on our course and we didn't want clouds to obscure our watery path :). We came around the point and there was the entrance. A sailor named Tom (and Joan) with Penny, the big black dock mistress, helped us tie up to the dock. There is water and electricity. No restrooms or showers or laundry. After securing and checking in we walked around and explored. What a surprise! It appears to be a whole housing development that is defunct! All houses in ruin. The beach is nice. There is even an abandoned beach club and a club house with a huge pool!! All in ruins. There is a bridge and wide canal. Rich says some of the houses were on canals too. Our neighbors went up the wide canal in their dingy and saw a shark! We had to light 2 pics to keep away 100% of the no-see-us. There was a cool breeze at night - Yea wind scoop. It must be 85° - 95°F (low -high) Smile.

6/22/98 Monday

The other sailboat left in the morning and the dive boat took a load of divers out a little later. They left, circled the harbor once and came back, somebody must have forgotten some piece of equipment. We had the place to ourselves and after a relaxing morning we broke out the water hose and fuel transfer pump. While Jill did a little laundry in a bucket I transferred 2 jugs of fuel and bought more. After lunch we hosed down the dingy and boat and headed for the beach. We walked out to the old beach club. It was low tide and we could see a shallow bank running in a circle around the swimming area with a deep cut in the NW corner. I had seen this feature on one of the charts but it was not obvious when we entered or yesterday when we visited the beach. The shore is small gravel with larger 3-6" rocks at the low water line down to a depth of 3’ and then sand. In the middle of the area is a very deep hole, we could not see the bottom, it just fell from 10’ to very deep. The water was filled with millions of small silver fish, more than a school, they coated the entire bottom. There were also numerous 3-4" fish and Jill saw a small barracuda. We walked back to the marina along the shore and found a few nice shells and some pieces of sponge. We used the hose to take showers back at the boat and then relaxed for the rest of the afternoon. Around 6 a large motor yacht came in and we helped them tie up. They came from Cat Island and caught a bunch of fish and gave us part of one dolphin they caught. Jill cooked half of that for dinner and it was delicious. After sunset the wind increased and became gusty. There were some clouds and lightning in the distance but we could see the stars shining overhead. The marina has brand new picnic tables on the docks and the people from the powerboat set up a grill on one. It was a pan with charcoal and a screen over it. The lady cut her hand setting it up and after they lit it they went for a walk. When they came back it had burned a hole in the picnic table.

We wash the dingy and boat and I washed most of our dirty cloths. We went snorkeling and swimming at the Cape Eleuthera Beach. We were so surprised. There is coral and a very deep blue hole. I saw a small barracuda and many colorful fish. That hole lies right at the shore. Scary! I took a picture of some tall porcupine animals right near the lip. I tried several times but could not get up the nerve to swim over it! We picked up some neat colorful shells and I got a few small pieces of sponge for Jean to use in painting.

This eve late a motor cruiser family came in to dock and we helped with the lines. They had just caught 2 40 lb dolphin and gave us a big bag for supper. It sure was good. I have enough for tomorrow too. Rich is Spite and Malice champ. We are tied for RummyCub.